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How to care for zofobas larvae

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Choosing the right formicaria among a great many diverse options is a rather difficult task. In this article we will look at the basic designs of ant farms and help you make a choice in favor of one of them.

Great, we have chrysalis in boxes. They ripen, then beetles come out. And let's throw everyone into the container! The next day, the most delicate beetles had already been devoured as a whole, and bit by bit hardened they had bitten off everything that could be bitten off. So it won’t work. You need to wait until the beetle becomes dark brown, and only then let it go to the brethren. And then there will be fun with orgies and fights. But this is in the order of things, it should be so. A popular misconception is that bugs do not breed at low humidity, so the substrate must be sprayed. Of course, if you love flour mites - spray. If not, keep the humidity to a minimum, do not allow the substrate to moisten, and maintain ventilation. Then the females will lay heaps of small eggs directly into the substrate, and everything will go in a new fashion.

Pluses of the feed object: huge biomass (worms in prosperous periods can literally be scooped up with buckets), large size (you can feed your entire colony with one worm), unpretentiousness and omnivorousness, the inability to move on smooth vertical surfaces.

Cons: again, large size (for the small colony the zofobas is unproductive), chemical discharges in case of danger (they will not harm the ants, but the smell from your fingers will be indescribable), monstrous strength and indestructibility (the ants will not cope with the living zofobas, it must be thoroughly crushed or generally cut into pieces, otherwise it will destroy half the colony by crushing it with a body and tearing it with mandibles), troubles with worms being planted for pupation and, finally, ants refusal in most cases is THIS (zofobas is suitable for numerous a bunch of aggressive ants that don't care what it is - Carebara, Solenopsis, Pheidole).

Zophobas (Zophobas morio) conditions of detention:

Temperature: 25-27 degrees Celsius.

Humidity: Beetles need a moisture content of 60-70%, the larvae have enough wet food, without additional spraying.

Substrate: Oatmeal + sawdust (not coniferous), as shelters and additional usable area can be rotten eggs or egg trays.

But not all conditions must be perfectly observed, for example, I hardly support humidity in bugs, I have coniferous sawdust. Ideal conditions are needed for high fertility, which is not necessary under ordinary conditions. By high fecundity, this means the release of several kilograms of larvae per week.

Main characteristics and method of pupation:

To turn the larva into a chrysalis, and then into a beetle, it is necessary to plant a large larva from the rest into a jar of any kind, without substrate and moisture, wait for exit.

The pupation time of the larva is 20-25 days, sometimes earlier,

From chrysalis to beetles in about 30 days,

After turning into a beetle, keep it separate for about a week, only after it finally blackens and gain strength, they hook it up to the rest.

From the moment of laying the egg by the beetle until the larva leaves there, about 14 days,

From the emergence of the larva to adulthood, about 4 months.

Zophobos content (Zophobas morio):

There are two main types of content: the combined content of larvae of all ages and beetles, and separate for several tanks.

Shared Content:First I will describe this type, since I myself use it. In a sufficiently large container (in my case, the former aquarium, the volume seems to be 60 liters), the substrate is filled up, I have a rotten putty on top, I don’t know from which tree. Then they start the larvae, I started with 50 pieces, if there are beetles, then the beetles are also launched there and that's all. Naturally, pupation of larvae should be taken.

We feed juicy foods several times a week, like cockroaches, you can organize a feeder, but I do not, you can also spray the substrate every day, I spray it once a week.

This type of content has its advantages.For example, such as: A small amount of time wasted working with zofobas, they are all in the same tank and are convenient to care for.

There are also disadvantages.: there is no differentiation of larvae by age, which makes it difficult to search for larvae of the right size, and can lead to cannibalism, as well as a limited number of beetles can be on a limited area, in case of large numbers they will fight with lethal outcomes.

It makes sense to use this type if you need to get offspring of zofobas to feed your animals, even if there are a lot of them, over the course of zofobas, but collecting “wholesale” crops in this way will not work.

Separation method:It consists in the fact that a certain number of bugs are populated in plastic containers with a small layer of substrate, 6-8 bugs are placed on a standard food container, the bugs breed 1.5-2 weeks there, after which they move to a new place of residence in the exact same container. And so it repeats itself constantly, adding new bugs to the colony as they die.

Pluses of separate content: The ability to maintain different conditions for larvae and beetles, larvae of different sizes in different containers, the birth rate is controlled, so to speak, the fertility of this method is an order of magnitude greater than the joint content.

Cons of separate content: There are a lot of tanks, which means more time to feed everyone, more space, and you need to transplant beetles every two weeks.

The methods of keeping and breeding zofobas at home are described above, it is undoubted that a lot of information can be added to the article, but it is not so small anyway. I will say that there are other methods of breeding zofobas where offspring can be rowed in tens of kilograms a week, but they are used for business, and there is no point in talking about them.

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