HOW TO DETERMINE THE VALUE OF THE BRAND? (version of the manual for "found" album (s) with stamps and not knowing HOW TO SELL THEIR PRICE)
You can find out the price of postage stamps using catalogs. Such postage stamp catalogs indicate a certain “average market price”. In different catalogs for the same brands, the cost may vary, but, as a rule, slightly. Here are some of them.
Domestic authors (for domestic stamps - that is, stamps on which something is written in Russian):
- Zagorsky ("Standard Collection") - in addition to stamps from the period of Tsarist Russia to the end of the USSR, he is the only one who also evaluates stamps of Modern Russia (from 1992 to the present)
- Michel - German. It covers the whole world and all periods of time, consists of a large number of volumes, breaking ALL brands of the world into regions, and coming out on average once a year. Accepted for interchange and pricing of brands between branded dealers of different countries. Available online, and even with a free trial period. It also produces a huge number of specialized directories - for example, on postcards, envelopes, thematic catalogs, etc.
- Stanley Gibbons English
- Iver and Tellier / Yvert & Telllier - French. According to this catalog, it is customary to consider the stamps of France, Monaco and the French colonies.
- Scott, American.
In addition, almost every self-respecting country issues its own catalog on its own brands.
How much can a brand cost?
Brand value is determined by several key factors, such as:
- Year of issue.
- Circulation of the brand.
- Brand condition.
- Type of teeth or without teeth.
- Perforation passes.
- Offset perforation.
- Varieties, defects and mistakes made when printing stamps.
- There is a misconception that the older the brand, the more expensive it is. This is actually not quite right! The age of the brand, of course, matters, but only in combination with the rest of the above points, its price is determined. For example (see figures) if we take the 1938 release mark. and the 1984 brand, then we will see that the 1984 brand. costs $ 7, and the 1938 brand. costs $ 2 (prices are approximate)
How so? - you ask.
Yes, this is because a 1984 mark made a mistake in printing, a spot above the face value.
This factor influenced the value of the brand. Here the conclusion is clear - the year does not always determine the value of the brand.
- With the circulation of stamps, I think there is no need to explain much. The larger the circulation of the brand, the less popular it is. Stamps from the 60s-90s are not very appreciated due to millionth issues (with rare exceptions)
- Under the condition, one should take the appearance and damage of the marks: scuffs, bruises, damage to the adhesive side (glue), the presence of stickers, torn teeth, torn marks, etc., any mechanical damage. Such factors reduce the value or depreciate the collectible in general.
- Postage stamps may have a different type of teeth or not have them at all. Consider the type of stamps with teeth: Pronging - perforation applied to sheets or rolls of postage stamps with perforating machines to facilitate separation of stamps from each other (the edges of the separated stamps are rows of teeth. The teeth can be of various sizes, for example: 8, 8 1/2, 9, 9 1/2, 10, 10 1/2, etc. Also, there are different ways of applying serrations (perforations) - Linear, comb, frame. I will not paint the application methods, there are a lot of this on the Internet, you can find it if you wish. brands without perforation (perforation) partially or in general. also affect the cost.
- Under perforation passes, grades should be accepted on which, during punching, perforation machine malfunctions were allowed, as a result of which certain edges of the grades were not perforated, an example in the figure
- Perforation displacement, as well as omissions, occurs as a result of perforation machine failures. Such stamps are very much appreciated by philatelists. An example in the figure.
- Varieties, defects and printing errors can have a huge number of options, so I will not describe everything. These can be spots, bifurcation of prints, image offsets, color errors, lettering errors, etc. Examples in the figures below.
All of the above elements affecting the cost of brands are described in more detail in catalogs. We will talk about how to determine the cost of catalogs below.
What affects the price
Prices in catalogs are determined by their authors after market analysis. The price in the catalog is usually the approximate price at which (or better below which) the brands are recommended to BUY. If you want to sell brands, especially “all at once”, then you will definitely get much, MUCH less.
ATTENTION: if you feel that the dealer is interested in buying your brands - do not give them right away. Go to the second, to the third ... and then decide. But for reference: the cheapest brands are sold by weight, and in this case the price for each decent brand will be about a ruble or less.
IMPORTANT: a lot depends on the quality of the brand (its condition). If it is with fully preserved glue on the back, with all the teeth in place, not wrinkled, without scratches and wrinkles, then its cost is closer to the catalog. An important role is played by the completeness of the series. Indeed, many stamps are issued not one at a time, but several each, united (as a rule) by one topic, and often a postal block or blocks is attached to such a series. For example, no dealer will take a thematic collection of stamps for decent money, even in good condition, if there are, say, only stamps with the image of elephants pulled out from different series of fauna.
I repeat: the variegated stamps (in good condition!) Are collected by sellers of stamps in heaps of 200-1000, called the “philatelic mix”, and sold at the price of a ruble per brand or lower. If there are no defects, but the series are incomplete, and the brands are mostly used and not older than 50 years (see below for how to determine this), then this is the very “mixture”. That is, you can sell them (if you can) - no more than 20 kopecks. a piece. And if you would like to get rid of such brands - give them to your children better: at least they will give them pleasure, and maybe they will start a good collection! If you suddenly want to continue the collection, then it makes sense to leave them until you find a better and / or more complete copy.
ATTENTION: The item “Important” may NOT relate (roughly) to brands older than 70 years. Such stamps should not be borne by the first trader that comes across, in the hope of his honesty. But then you must determine the age of the brand yourself! If the stamps are domestic (that is, something is written on them in Russian), and you haven’t found a year on them (even in the magnifying glass) —and they look old (I’m not talking about “yat”) - it was abolished in 1918 ) - feel free to classify them as “interesting”. Since the 1920s, many have set the year of release, but many have not. This does not affect the price.
If you have a collection of old domestic brands - treat it with respect. Examine the catalog. Not so it is inaccessible to understanding. If the brands are foreign - then there with the year of manufacture is much worse. Many postal agencies still do not put them on stamps, although which would be easier. Look by sight: old ones are not old. You can type on the Internet, for example, the “postage stamps of the world of 1920”, and the idea of how they looked in those years is very approximate. Are you sure the stamps are old? Now more accurately determine what is the condition of the brands. There are 3 options in any catalog (as a rule, because old brands are often ** not even indicated before a certain year):
- - ** - the brand is clean and whole on both sides. The glue layer (wrong side) is NOT damaged at all.
- - * - stamp with a sticker. What is it? The brand has an adhesive layer on the back (wetted, pasted on an envelope). Klassers for stamps, with special strips to insert them, were invented in the twentieth century. For many decades, philatelists have been using the “sticker” - a narrow piece of thin “tissue” paper, which in the fold connected the adhesive side of the stamp with the page of the album where it was pasted. This was done in order to minimize damage to its adhesive side (and some, after all, sculpted the whole brand there and straight - forever and ever). I will say more: philatelists of the “old sourdough” still use stickers! It is precisely for this reason that most of the old stamps have on the back a trace of this sticker (or itself) - it really depends on how the stamp was “peeled” from the album in which it was stored. ·
- - a circle with a dot in the middle - a canceled stamp. A print of the postmark is visible on it, in appearance it is a piece of print. Such a stamp can either be past mail (sent somewhere on an envelope), and, accordingly, not having an adhesive layer on the back, or “blanked by order of philatelists”.
- There is English. abbreviation STO ("Canceled to order"). That is: part of the circulation of stamps was not originally intended to pay for postal services, but only for collectors. In this case, the adhesive layer is intact. But the brand is initially cheaper - because you could not use it as an alternative to money when sending mail.
In any case, the catalog contains the price of the WHOLE (NOT TORNED AND NOT TORNED), NOT CRUNCHED, AND NOT STAMPED stamps. Further is up to you. We take the catalog - and go! After all, the main thing here is not to miss the real rarity! And even more I hope that in the process of pricing stamps, you will want to keep them for yourself, and collect them further)))
How to determine the value of the brand?
To determine the value of the brand, you can use different options, starting with a search for the like on the Internet and ending with a catalog search. A search on the Internet does not always indicate the correct value for your brand, a more reliable way to catalog. The catalog contains all currently known brand parameters and estimated prices (+/- from the catalog estimate). Further, the demand factor at the moment affects whether you can sell more or less.
Who can help with the assessment?
There is a lot of information on the Internet about the assessment and examination of postage stamps. All services are provided for a fee and take a certain period of time. Before you turn to the help of specialists, you should approximately establish the value of the copy yourself, so as not to pay for the services more than your brand is worth.
Where and to whom to sell a postage stamp?
After assessing the value of your rarity, if you want to sell, the question arises - Where? And to whom? There are various auctions for the sale of philatelic products, there are a lot of them in the net. The most popular is eBay. Also, many sites offer to buy your collections and brands from you. Our site is no exception! You can leave an offer by sending a letter to the mail site http://filatelist.info/obratnaja_svjaz
I hope that the article was useful for a general concept in evaluating your brands. Do not forget to like in gratitude for the time spent.
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