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Book binding do it yourself from improvised materials

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E-books tightly entered modern life, almost completely replacing traditional ones. It is understandable - you can read a particular work of your choice anywhere from the screen of your phone or tablet. At the same time, there is no need to carry a weighty and space-consuming publication. At the same time, there were people for whom the book is not just a source of information, but a living creature with its own soul, smell and history. It is important for them not only to read the text, but also to enjoy the process, turning pages and making notes. Electronic devices do not provide such an opportunity. Not always liked the work can be found in the library. Therefore, printing it from a computer and binding books with your own hands will help you make an individual author's work. Also, this useful knowledge will allow you to craft beautiful photo albums, copyright notebooks and diaries on your own.

Types of bindings

Creating a book from scratch is a rather time-consuming process. But it is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance. Even high school students will be able to master it. This skill in the future will help to independently prepare term papers and dissertations, without resorting to the services of printing houses.

There are several ways to bind publications at home. Each of them has its advantages and disadvantages. Let us consider each of them in more detail.

  1. Binding with a cord or rings. This method of connecting pages to each other is the easiest. For its execution, you just need to punch the desired number of holes with a hole punch and thread a connecting tape or special mounting rings into them.

  1. Scrapbooking This type of binding is also quite simple in execution, but is suitable only for small creations up to 16 pages maximum. Its essence is to fasten pages with paper stripes.

This kind of binding is more suitable for albums than for books.

  1. Book binding, consisting of five subspecies:
  • loose sewing with wire
  • sewing with thread
  • adhesive bonding,
  • glue seamless bond with edging,
  • stitching with a wire

The main advantage of such a technique is the strength of fasteners, presentability of appearance and durability.

There are also hard and soft binding. Cardboard bookends are used for the solid, while the soft one allows for the use of thick paper cover.

Making a book yourself

Before you start binding the prepared text, carefully study the master class presented below. It will help to deal with the intricacies and nuances of notebook binding pages.

Step-by-step instruction. We print the text on A4 paper and fold each sheet in half, collecting a notebook from them. Each notebook consists of four pages bent in the middle.

We will collect a creation of eight notebooks.

Next, you need to carefully press the blanks to each other.

To do this, you can use a special press or use weighty things from household items. For example, press them with a clean cutting board on which to put a bucket of water.

While the future book is under the press, we make a template for piercing holes. Through them sheets of the book will be sewn.

Using the template, we mark up the blanks.

We puncture holes in each notebook using an awl.

We prepare the tape for binding, fixing it on the edge of the table with tape.

We sew notebooks together, carefully following the pagination. For convenience in work, we use some kind of load so that the parts do not move along the working surface and do not move relative to one another.

The ends of the threads are tied with a regular knot.

Starting from the third brochure, we fix the thread as shown in the photo.

We fix the book block with a knot.

Then again we put the future book in the press so that the edge protrudes from it. You can simply place it on the edge of the table and press it with a load.

We grease the PVA spine so that it sticks together and in this position let the block dry.

After that, glue the flyleaf.

Now you need to align the book. To do this, we use a clerical knife, a piece of plastic, plywood, and a scrup. The board will serve as a kind of ruler, so make sure it is flat. A traditional measuring device will not work, as it will be difficult to hold.

Glue on the spine gauze and captals.

Now let's cover. Using hot melt adhesive, cardboard and fabric, we make binding. Instead of material, you can use wallpaper or any other elegant paper to your taste.

We collect all the details of the book together.

Exclusive copyright copy is ready.

Print Settings:

printing 2 pages on one side of an A4 sheet is A5 format.

We make the necessary fields in order to be able to stitch seamlessly. I also made a marking - a vertical line between the sheets, for the convenience of cutting an A4 sheet in half.

We print out sheets from two parties. But before, I experimented a bit to print everything as it should. I fed each sheet to the printer manually. It took me about 20-30 minutes.

We cut sheets into and sort into pages.

Next, cut the sheets and quickly check whether they are sorted correctly. I sorted them at the cutting stage.

Align the stack of sheets. The sheets we got all individually (not notebooks).

We proceed to fasten the sheets together in a book block.

To do this, we need a small, naturally, homemade press and PVA glue.

I made a press, as you see, from 2 pieces of a floorboard and 2 hairpins (from car rods), in general, from what was at hand.

It looks as shown in the photo.

We align the stack of sheets and clamp in the press. Coat the side to be stitched with plenty of PVA glue several times and let the glue dry completely. This is done to initially bond the sheets and easier to work with the block. After gluing, it takes some time to dry.

Next, we need a jigsaw, thick threads (they are also called technical), PVA glue, fabric (up to this point I have prepared and cut out the root of the fabric).

We take our blank of the book, and where the first time was glued, we make cuts to a depth of 3-4 mm with a jigsaw.

I abundantly impregnated the pieces of thread with PVA glue and pushed them tightly into the cuts.

After I finished with the threads, I again abundantly smeared this surface with glue. I put a cloth on the glue and pressed it tightly. The fabric was coated with glue on top.

In this form, I put everything in a warm place.

It remains to make bookends and cover.

Since the book is not for the exhibition, but purely for myself, I decided not to bother with the hard cover, but used the cover from an old book of a suitable size.

After drying, the outer edge of the book block must be cut off to even the sheets, make the flyleaf and glue the cover.

Cut the edge of the book without removing it from the press, putting a piece of plywood for rigidity.

I made the flyleaf, again, from what was at hand - from thick business paper (where business cards were printed :)) - 2 A4 sheets. It is possible from a Whatman paper.

Having folded the sheets of paper in half, I glued them like this: the first spread on one side in the first sheet of the book (and the second side - for gluing to the cover, we glue it later). I did the same with the last spread of the book.

What was printed on business paper went inside, so all this disgrace is not visible :).

We wait a little when the glue dries, and then glue the cover.

Glue the spine along with the first spread of the book to the cover.

After all these manipulations, for several hours I put the book under a large pile of other books.

Is dry! The book is ready!

The bookend stuck well, evenly.

The cover says a lot.

In general, it turned out pretty funny!

A book about forex trading, and on the cover of the inscription: “Pioneer library, personal happiness, etc. "

Cover for many years.

I did the binding of the book about a year and a half ago from the date of publication.

Now on the Internet I meet better methods for binding books, where sheets are printed with notebooks and then stitched together with thread. And this can also be done with your own hands at home.

The article “Making a quality binding for your favorite book at home” describes in more detail how to make such a binding. I recommend reading it. There is also told about the manufacture of covers for the book.

As an option, thin books can be made with paperback and flash all sheets at once. I shot books up to 30 sheets in 2 places with a construction stapler. It turned out also not bad.

  • User Blog - Anton
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Comments

All that is connected with the spine of the book (where the ropes hang) is lubricated ONLY with rubber glue, it is more flexible and when opening the bookends they will not break, and if you make them on PVA, after hardening the glue becomes brittle and breaks the binding, and all other work PVA with paper ideal.

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I just had PVA on hand, but I didn't know about rubber glue. Is there such a thing? What is the name of?

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I use “Moment”, but any shoe glue is possible, it is better of course “Dismakol” is more dense. After drinking on the spine, carefully blow out paper dust, coat well with glue and only then insert the threads. Drying, glue again, paste a woven strip, wait for drying and you can stick the cover. Like that.

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I have been doing books in this way for a long time. The principle of bonding sheets is the same, but something is wrong.

1) After the book is printed before gluing at the beginning and at the end of the book, I put 3 blank sheets, which in the future will become the cover.

2) after the book is done it needs to be cut to size. I did not always succeed in trimming with a knife exactly. But I found another way to do even cropping. First, cropped rough. You can cut with a knife, but I prefer to cut with a hacksaw. Moreover, if the book is thin (400-600 pages), then a hacksaw for metal, if thick (800-1200 pages) - a hacksaw for wood. Immediately after trimming, the cut is polished. To do this, I have a grinding device for a hand-held electric drill in the form of a circle, to which a grinding wheel made of sandpaper is attached with Velcro. First, the coarsest grinding wheel you can buy is taken. The abrasive on this circle resembles finely broken glass. He perfectly polishes a cut, removing a layer of paper quite easily. In principle, grinding can be finished on this, but if you want to get a very high-quality cut, take a smaller emery circle and decode again.

This is done with each of the 3 pages, except the one with which the book is sewn.

3) As I said, I make the cover of 3 sheets of paper glued on each side of the book. I wrap these 3 sheets with wrapping paper for the printer paper. She's sweaty enough. After that, on the cover page, I paste the cover page of the book, which I print on the printer. Next, I type the name of the book and the author on the computer and paste it on the flyleaf so that the book can be easily found on the bookshelf.

4) I paste the cover with a wide adhesive tape. This should be done carefully so that folds do not form on the tape. To do this, during gluing, do not unwind a long section of adhesive tape.

5) The result is a softback book with a fairly tight backing. The cover looks shiny (due to adhesive tape) and protected from damage.

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