It is not always possible to find in the magazines “For those who sew” a pattern of the model that you liked in the fashion catalog or clothing collection. Considering the fact that many beautiful models of dresses and blouses are with drapes that adorn and complement them, I decided to show you in this master class how to model the base pattern.
Using the example of a photo and a detailed description of the process, you can easily independently perform any modeling of the bodice with draperies.
The undercut on the bodice of the model of the dress or blouse can be even: horizontal, as in the dress of emerald color, or inclined, as in the model of the blue dress. Or figured, for example, semicircular, as in the summer top of the ensemble in ethno-style.
These three models of dresses are an example of the basic techniques of bodice drapery: a deep smell, a cut in the center of the front half, pleats or a bottom assembly. Each of them, the execution technology, we will consider in this article in detail.
Before modeling the bodice.
We will learn how to transfer the volume of breast tucks using the example of horizontal undercuts. Then, when the principle of modeling itself is understood, on the pattern-based front you can depict any configuration of the bodice.
If you want to sew a model with a smell, then first make a detailed pattern of the front - to the waist or to the undercut line, and draw a smell line - photos 1 and 2 on the first collage.
Measure the distance from the neck point to the cutout point on the shoulder seam. And measure the same distance on the back - photo 3.
Then you need to accurately determine the distance from the shoulder to the undercut line - it can be not only under the chest, but also at the waist line, as in this black dress with a bright print. It is measured, as a usual measure of the height of the front, through the center of the chest.
This is especially important if the chosen model has a cut on the back, as in dresses of light green color and aquamarine. To make the measurement line strictly horizontal, tie a thin tape under the chest.
The easiest way is to ask someone to help you, because in case of incorrect measurement, basically, the back of the product will be raised or sag.
By the way, in these models made of chiffon, in order to get such a beautiful drapery, not only the depth of the chest and central tucks is used (photo 4), but also the additional volume.
In order to get it, spread the parts of the half of the front by 1.5 - 3 cm, as in this photo. I do not recommend a greater distance, since the vertical folds will not fall neatly. The exception is thin and plastic knitwear.
If the model dresses or blouses, draperies are located only from the shoulder seam, then it is enough to translate the depth of the central tuck into the chest - photo 5.
In odorless models, on the front pattern, draw a cut line, and, if necessary, a curly cut line. Define the cutout width and shoulder width.
1. Simple modeling of the bodice.
The simplest modeling of the bodice of the dress is the option when the drapery: small folds or prefabrication are located at the bottom. But this does not mean at all that such models look not interesting. An example is two fashionable dresses.
In the summer dress-sundress made of silk, several small folds from the curly undercut provide a beautiful and comfortable fit for the chest, and are complemented by a decorative long tourniquet from the shoulder seam, which also folds.
In an elegant navy linen sheath dress with exquisite embroidery, a horizontal cut is located between the vertical tucks. And the “lower” subassemblies harmoniously combine with two shallow folds from the shoulder seam and a deep triangular neckline.
Cut the base pattern of the front along the cut line. Align the mid-front line with the tracing line of the tracing paper. Close the chest tuck without shifting the vertical position of the center - photo 7.
Below the dashed line indicates the allowance, a depth of 0.8 - 1.5 cm at the level of the Central tuck. To the edges, it decreases to the original points. Depth of deflection depends on the density of the tissue, the coefficient of extensibility, on the shape and size of the chest. Therefore, it is selected individually.
Such drapery can be combined with a shallow smell, for example, a stylish cotton top with an American armhole.
Make the first pattern with maximum allowance. Lay 2 - 3 shallow folds, even if in the model - just a prefix - photo 8.
See how deep the deflection is. If it is necessary to reduce or increase it, straighten the pattern on another sheet of tracing paper and make the best option for cutting the bodice - draw a semicircular line that will smooth the formed corner. Trim and try again.
If the footage of the fabric allows, make a trial part of the front on this pattern.
In models of dresses and blouses of large sizes, 50-60, the depth of the tuck is significant - 8-15 cm. This is enough for a beautiful drapery. In products 44–48 sizes, the depth of tucking is only 5–6 cm.
If you want the drapery to visually enlarge the chest and look beautiful, make an additional allowance of 1-2 cm in the side seam. If the model has a cut in the middle, then you can symmetrically make such an addition in the center line - photo 7.
2. Modeling a bodice with draperies in the center.
No less interesting are dresses with bodice draperies located from the central seam, regardless of whether the bodice is closed or decollete. As a rule, if there are shoulder seams, the neckline is triangular in shape.
After you cut the pattern, connect the chest tuck and draw the shape of the cutout.
Then place the base pattern, as in the first example, aligning the central vertical line of the cut strictly along the lobar parallel to the edge of the tracing paper. It is important that the new pattern of the bodice was built in compliance with the direction of the shared thread, otherwise it can be skewed in the product.
Mark the contour of the central section with straight lines - photo 9.
Now combine the edges of the chest tuck and the center - photo 9, keeping the direction of the center line of the cut.
Cut the resulting pattern along the contour of the neckline, shoulder and armhole. From the side of the central seam, leave allowances of 3-5 cm - photo 10.
Lay 2 - 3 tucks, even in the case of assembly on the bodice of the model. Connect the upper and lower marks of the center line - photo 11. Cut the excess allowance. Straighten the resulting pattern - it is ready. Photo 12.
First of all, we propose to consider the simplest modeling of drapery on the bodice. This is an option when under the bust is immediately a small assembly of fabric. Do not think that such a model is boring and harmful. For example, in a summer dress, this simulation provides comfortable and elegant chest holding, but in the second version, a sheath dress, the lower assemblies are ideally combined with draping on the shoulders.
Before the cut line, we cut the pattern of the base of the front of the dress. Then we combine the front line with the tracing line of the tracing paper and fix the tuck without shifting the chest position. This you can see in the next photo.
As shown in the seventh photo, the dotted line is below. This is an allowance of one and a half cm maximum, which is at the tuck level at the maximum distance, but to the edges it decreases slightly. The depth of the deflection itself is selected individually, it depends on the shape of the chest. Photo eight shows how the undercut is assembled.
Owners of the perfect figure are advised to wear dresses with draperies on the stomach. In this style, the outfit will emphasize all the advantages of your figure and give romance to your image. Drapery on the bodice will help emphasize your bust, and also will not allow to attract attention if the girl has big hips. The photo shows the following example of a dress pattern with drapery:
Well, as the next step, we propose to consider the detailed process of making dresses with drapes at the waist, using the original designer dress from a famous designer in the original.
To sew a dress, we need a piece of fabric 130 by 150 cm.
To create, take the usual pattern of a fitted dress and simulate these lines.
We cut out the pattern, the rays, not reaching half an inch to the edge. Spread each piece.
What happened as a result:
On the yoke, we close the tucks and connect it to the right side, and in front of the dress with the left side.
We cut out the details of the cut from the fabric. Here's what happened:
The back of the product is cut in a fold.
The first step is to sew the seam that was indicated in the drawing by the red line.
Then we fold this part in half and start scribbling from the bend of the canvas to a distance of four cm so that a hole emerges into which the top part will be worn.
As a result, the assembly turns out in the corner. Then we tie the knots and at the beginning of the overlock stitch we do the fastening.
Pass the top of the dress into the hole that we left.
Using this technology, the other two seams are also sewn together.
Here is the wrong side.
Here is a knot at the waist.
Sew the middle of the back.
And the last step is to lay the machine line along the side and shoulder seams.
We process the lower part of the dress, for example, manually with a blind seam.
Thus, on the front of the canvas will not be visible punctures.
Using this method, we process the neck and armholes.
Style with decor
We say right away that the neck of this dress model can be easily complicated. To do this, you just need to draw it at the neck with the help of decorative drapery. The finished outfit can be decorated with a narrow strip of the belt.
Most often, this thing is sewn from knitted fabric, which allows not to completely process the bottom line of the dress.
And now briefly explain how to sew such a dress. We seamlessly sew the front part and grind the neck. This style of dress has two details of sleeves of a simple cut, which are made separately, and a belt about seven cm wide and about 190 cm long. We fold the front shelf in half along the center line, the wrong side looks inward. Then we model the first fold. After that, a stitching is sewn to the neck and the front and back of the dress are connected along the shoulder seam. Then, sleeves are inserted into the armholes and we sew the product with one seam on the sides, not forgetting about the sleeves. Sew a drapery.
3. Modeling drapery on the smell.
This is the most complex bodice simulation. Therefore, if you find any model with a pattern of your size in the magazine, it is better to use it.
Because these patterns are created using computer programs that take into account various parameters: the degree of elasticity of the fabric, its density, the silhouette of the model - mostly tight-fitting.
Still, I will show you how to build such a bodice pattern with diagonal draperies so that it is easier to adjust the finished pattern. They are especially effective and often used in models of elegant dresses for full ladies.
I definitely advise you to make a trial version of the bodice.
Draw a line of smell, as in photos 1 and 13. It can be straight, then the smell is high. In the models of their knitwear, you can immediately make a lapel - a one-piece cut of the cutout. Be sure to mark the center line.
If you sew a dress from dense fabric, and want to make a beautiful concave cut-out line, then cut out the stitching and strengthen it with a thermal cloth.
Close the breast tuck - photo 14.
Where the cut line ends at the top, leave a tracing allowance of 10 - 15 cm - photo 15. Lay a few small diagonal folds, securing them with pins - photo 16. Draw a horizontal line at the bottom of the bodice. And cut the tracing paper along the cut and bottom line - photo 17.
You should get a neat, sharp odor angle - photo 18.
Spread the folds - the finished pattern of the bodice with diagonal draperies - in photo 19. I advise you, if you sew a dress model with 2 - 3 deep diagonal folds on the bodice, mark the connection points of each fold on the pattern - then it will be easy for you to transfer them to the fabric and carefully to drape - photos 20 and 21.
I understand that you probably have questions about modeling the bodice of a dress or blouse of any particular model. Therefore, I will do an additional master class on the example of 7 - 10 dresses - Modeling the bodice of a dress and blouses with reliefs.
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